KANNUR SNAKE PARK WELCOMES NEW ARRIVAL

Your chief reporter of the Colonial Post was most delighted to be invited to Kannur Snake Park; welcoming the arrival of its new King Cobra, Jasper.
The new tenant will be housed in the King Cobra block. His neighbour, Percy, has shown some interest in his arrival. Set among lush green foliage, the square concrete block provides excellent viewing facilities for the public via two large glass windows. Visitors can enjoy clear views of the cobras, as the park keepers have ensured there are no obstacles within the concrete block for Jasper to hide behind. It is delightful to witness prioritisation of the viewer's access to the superfluous recreation of the creature's habitat.
For the braver snake enthusiasts; an hourly snake show is provided. Jasper and a selection of his peers are presented in a steep walled turret. The selection of snakes are not kept at a distance for long. Each snake is lifted by his keeper on a metal hook and is paraded around the walled circle. Visitors of all ages may reach out and stroke the scales of cobras, pythons, and vipers. Old and young squealed alike at the rough sensation of stroking against the slippery grain. The carefree attitude of the keepers was absolutely splendid. In many other parks across the globe; viewers find themselves inhibited by over zealous attendants concerned with half baked theories that backwards stroking actually harms these mindless creatures. The snake park is proud to provide this experience to over 150 families every hour. However, nervous snake fans need not fear as the snake heads are kept well restricted within the metal hook.
For visitors impatient to visit the snake show, an excellent all day viewing facility is provided. Housed in two rows of compact square facilities are more pythons, sand snakes, tree snakes and vipers. The snake enclosures are slightly dark because of the concrete roof upon the facility. The helpful flash photography illuminates the square houses so that the snakes may be seen more clearly. The snakes themselves are very placid and show minimal resistance against posing for photographs. Just outside of the modern enclosure runs a path bordered by dense green foliage. The garden decor around the cages transports one to a lush tropical paradise. Altogether, the route through the cool concrete enclosure and sultry parkland makes for a magnificent walk.
The park is also proud to host an extensive range of reptilian and amphibian creatures for viewing. Particularly impressive was the exceptionally economic use of space; ensuring that the maximum number of animals can be displayed to delight the public. The terrapin cage homed five of the creatures in a 2 by 3 foot metal space; with a plastic bowl providing an excellent representation of their aquatic habitat. The shelled amphibians can be viewed from all angles through the metal bars at all hours of the day. One must observe that one terrapin seemed rather ungrateful with his water playground. He opted instead to spend the day motionless by the black bars.
A stroll between the tall, well kept coconut trees will take you to the white concrete dug outs which house the larger reptiles. Now, this humble reporter can assure you that the reptiles housed here can be monstrously dangerous to man if turned loose. The management have effectively negated this possibility by ensuring that the circular inside of the enclosure is completely smoothed concrete. The bars running across the top also guarantee that these beasts will stay captive. The reptile manager, Saresh, commented. "We are exceedingly proud to present so many reptiles to the public. Here we house fourteen crocodiles in a single space". On this particular day, only seven of the crocodiles were visible as the remainder sat beneath each other in the crescent shaped water pool. Visibility of the remaining crocs is maintained by positioning the home so that it is fully bathed in sun throughout the day. Luckily the enclosure can be paced around in a mere twelve steps. This makes for easy viewing of the creatures from all angles.
Next door, the alligators that strayed from the narrow water pool remained exceptionally sedate in the bvleached white space. One must take a moment to congratulate the park management on their excellent water conservation efforts. By keeping the water used to fill the reptillian pools to a minimum, the keepers have ensured that enough water is saved to guarantee each visitor at least two coffees. Also, I am sure that the creatures are far happier in their sutrap. In terms of viewing the animals; their dry brown skins certainly do stand in stark contrast to their monotoe surrounding. One of the nine alligators had recently had a brood. The small reptiles were displayed on the concrete lip between the painted base and the water segment of the enclosure. Asleep, the offspring appeared to bask in their shadeless home. The park keepers should be awarded for taming such a ferocious beast into calm docility.
For visitors less inclined to enjoy the amphibians and reptilians housed here; the park offers a range of cuddlier animals for contemplation. Love birds of blue, yellow and pink breast sidle next to each other in clear barred cages. This reporter does suspect that the snake park may have received some love birds that are unable to be homed elsewhere. The normally sweet birds had a certain madness to them, plucking at their own and each others feathers. Despite this, it was marvellous to see that the audience enjoyed the drama played out in the bird cage.
The park's management have also seen fit to capture some fine examples of the native white headed eagle. One has often found it cumbersome hiking through the region's forests on the chance that one may or may not see a white headed eagle. It is splendid to find that such fine examples have been captured. Thus viewing within the park may occur whenever one desires.
Also on display were two extraordinary porcupines. It is extraordinary to see such shy creatures displayed so clearly; another fine example of the management's ingenuity for bringing Kerala's native creatures to the audience. Today only one was in view as it was stood on top of the other! The upper porcupine appeared to be enjoying a game of 'peep a boo' with the park visitors. Nuzzling its head out of sight; it would flash its face upwards only when something was thrown into the cage - what fun!
Saresh led myslef and a family of nature enthusiasts to the recently opened cat enclosure, housed in a row of black barred cages. These squat spaces look minimalist modern against the backdrop of coconut trees, pond and grassland. The design is most contemporary - a nod to the British Industrial revolution one is sure. "Here we have managed to obtain from a bigger zoo; one jungle cat, two wild cats and a persian" Saresh informed. The persian peered glassy blue eyes between turrets of wild fur. It is a thoroughly fascinating zoological experiment to mix this domesticated animal with India's wildcats. Thepersian cat seems to have developed excellent survival mechanuisms; keeping still so as to cause little alarm to the wild ones next door. Saresh kindly informed me: "These cages are temporary cages, but they serve the cats well for the time they are here".
The snake park is proud to announce that the cat display will be available to the locals of Kannur for a further year.
The snake park is still enjoying an increased influx of visitors due to the recent opening of the macaque and owl enclosures. The short tailed macaques, close cousins of the breed that run wild around Kerala, are housed as an extended family in an intimate space. The contemporary minimalist theme was continued from the cat collection. "It is good to keep them together, macaques are very social animals" Saresh noted. The macaques are clearly social and considerate, spending their hours dangling from the tall door bars; static for visitors' snap shots. One must admit slight disappointment; as one had been led to believe that these creatures are excitable. Seeing them up s close was revelatory of their highly unassertive nature. One wonders how they survive at all in the wild as they appear to do nothing for themsleves. Frankly the capture of these creatures is a relief. Man has ensured their survival.
Adjacent to the macaque enclosure sits the new owl cage. The owls, saresh reports, "have been imported all the way from Europe through a private owner". It is with ease that the Keralan citizen can watch the birds, as the cage reaches the average man's height. Still as the night they fly in; the owls appear to be in awe at their new found surroundings. Perhaps once they have adjusted to their new home; they will be inclined to shuffle about. Nonetheless, one is sure they are relieved by the six month holiday their wings will be taking while they inhabit the cage.
Any individual wishing to make a donation to Kannur Snake Park charitable trust should contact the most generous Visha Chikista Kendra; the finance minister of Kerala and founder of the snake park.

Second class sleeper marathon...

Traveling two days on second class sleeper is an interesting insight into the thoughts and feelings of a zoo exhibit.

For those of you who ghave seen slumdog millionaire - the train scenes are a perfect depiction (apart from the carriage from which the boys try and steal chappatis - thats first class - a world away from the train carriages we know!). The carriages are jostling with passengers and tradesman. There's a catching exuberance to the situation. The inhabitants of the bunks across us had the habit of sporadically bursting in the song while the remaining passengers (including us) made conductor type motions and clapped at each finale vocal. Tradesman of all shape and sizes pass through in a constant stream - we were offered, among others, coffee sugar, chai. samosas, byriani, plastic flashing wands, birds that tweet when you click your fingers, ratles, satchels, banana fry, oranges, necklaces, school atlasses, books on religion, maths problems and english grammar, and the largest selection of novelty plastic keyrings I ere did see!

One family in particular adopted us. The babies were beautiful, wobbly legged with big bashful brown eyes. Its astounding how many hours you can entertain a child while impersonating a monkey - seriously - hours! and my monkey impression isn' even hat good - oh, perhaps thats why they were laughing so hard...Inside the carriage the group of 12 watch our every move from the adjacent bunks. Their charm delights and grates. Food is passed and broken English forms shards of conversation. We are their guests. Every chai, biscuit and digestion tablet is on them, at their insistence. In return, each movement made by us, each item plucked from our sacks is scrutinised with rapt attention.

One of the group invites us to his home, insists our next India visit will include it.

The wives were kind but distant. Swathed in saris of lime and orange. Their dark hair coils lusciously down their backs. Each toe is decorated with silver and gemstones. Every meal time they would bring me foods and gesture me to sit with them, but they never spoke to me or each other. Women of the lower castes receive minimal education here, so while their English was limited, their eyes were kind.

And then there were the menfolk...the elder men personify exactly what I have found difficult with this country. They will address only the bearded one. The big daddy of the family was asking the twit about the differences between protestants and cathoics etc...The twit looks to me and I clarify the answer. Upon hearing my answer the old gent would turn straight back to the twit to continue his questions on the subject. Again, the twit looks to me for clarification. This cycle continues, circular.

We've encountered this time and time again. A local will introduce himself to the twit, and ignore me. He will ask questions about me to the twit while I am stood right next to him. My presence is neither looked upon, or acknowledged. Apart from when I have a cigarette - then they do stare! Being a member of the culturally oppressed gender has provided a real insight into the phrase "its cos I'm [insert minority group] innit".

Its the same when we are out and about in the night. Travelling as a Western women feels like being a high class prositute of the 1800s. You circulate in social circles that are usually open only to men. You drink where only men drink and you smoke among males only. And as I imagine happened to the prostitutes of that era, the men share with you things that their wives will never know, they laugh at the jokes that their wife should never make. And yet when they choose to, they will discount your company. They will knock down your presence to the status of unperson; ignorable and ignored.

What makes it really difficult, what causes your blood to boil and your heart to seethe, is when the man you love, your companion, fails to notice your demotion to unperson status. Is it ok now? OK now that we mingle only with men in the smoky bars of India? All the while the Western woman traversing the bars may be fun, she may banter and provoke the gaiety of laughter. Remember though, Indian men of the night; the Western woman is cheap, she is easy. She can be demeaned and harrassed as she walks alone. Is it ok then, for the man who loves her, to enjoy her only when he chooses? And when he does not; turn back to the crowd, laugh with your chromosatic kind. Fail to notice her strugle to make herself heard in every meeting. Don't notice that the friendship is directed only at you. It is not required that you know this.

The old gent turns the conversation from us for a moment. He holds his belly through his billowing white robe; chuckling and bantering Hindi. The twit leans over; "You could make it a 3 way conversation you know, you know more about this stuff".

"Perhaps, but it keeps getting diverted", my dry response finished, I turn to the window.

The gentleman begins to ask the twit about myself, "What sort of scientist is your wife", "What is the University she works at?"

The twit supplies the answers and looks to me. I barely nod my head in response. Frustratingly I feel the chip inchin deeper into my shoulder. How do you handle such situations? Cheerful demeanor? Struggle for your intelligence to be heard? Sullen withdrawal? I swing between both stances; peacefully playing my voice into their nervous system; then retracting into a cocoon of hedphones and writing. Oh the self assurance of men; that the man is worth speaking with alone. Together they can disseminate the wisdom afforded only by the Y chromosome.

The gent takes a break to share thoughts with his company. Up until now they have been enraptured by the sight of the two English folk. The twit leans in, "I'm trying to involve you, but I'm starting to see the one-sidedness of it all now".

Thank god. At last.

What a self exacerbating situation. Rejected through cultural presumptions, I withdraw. How can anything ever be changed?

We pull into a train station. Six young men beeline across the platform to our windows. They do not speak; content to silently stare through the bars at the twit and I.

"Hello" the twit nods. One nods back. One grabs another by the arm and hands fim to my window. I smile and nod, they return the nod and little else.

An hour before our journey ended, three trainee priests jumped onto our carriage. They bounded straight to us..."Hello madam - how are you today?" I almost dropped my book in surprise - a man addressing me as an equal - WOO HOO! The three lads were beautifully fresh faced, bedecked in yellow university shirts with wide brown eyes and gentle smiles. They had decided to become priests at the age of 17 and were three years into their 13 year training. We found they loved learning English so we rummaged through our backpacks to find a book to give them. Joseph scrammed and returned with 3 cds "These are my three favourite, please take them and remember us". He wrote me the following in my journal:
"Life is precious. See it differently. Make it different. Do not try to follow any ideal, but be an ideal".

And so our second class sleeper train marathon came to an end. As we gathered our bags the whole carriage jumped up to shake us by the hand and wave us goodbye. As we stepped off the train and made our way down the platform we heard a bellow "Wait, please sir, wait!". One of the papas had brought his two babies off the train to shake our hands goodbye. They gazed up at us wide eyed and beamed us goodbye.

And so we left, warmed by the enthusiasm for friendship, and re-astounded at the open spirit of the people of India.